My Ganga Darshana.

27th Jan. Day2-part-2

Our driver was taking us through very crowded narrow lanes of colonies after colonies–the old part of Varanasi. Up till now; we saw developed part of Varanasi with big malls, shops, huge buildings, hospitals, etc. But this part was not that much developed. There were small houses with untidy surrondings. People were seen spitting ‘paan ras’ everywhere. Drainage water was running in front of almost all the houses. Inside the colonies only, there were many tiny, unplanned, unfinished shops of grocery, salon, paan, stationery, etc, haphazardly arranged. Stray and pet dogs, goats, cows, buffalows were roaming around at ease; ignoring the harsh horns of the vehicles.

As we approached near the ghat, our curiosity raised to the peak. Driver dropped us before the gate of ‘Assi ghat’ and said; ” Ab Ganga darshan karlo..boating voting ho jayegi to phone kar dena muze, mai aa javunga.” And he left.

We climbed few steps and reached the huge gate of Assi ghat. From the gate, we started stepping down. Steps of the ghat were plenty and steep. There was not much crowd on the ghat. Cleanliness was well maintained. We were looking here and there while going down…And…..,
That moment came, when we could see the shining water…..we went down in a hurry…to see the whole Riverbed…..and yes….we could see it…I was looking at  Gangaji very first time in my life. I have seen many rivers but she is different….I kept on looking at her without blinking my eyes. I was speechless….I was capturing and stoaring her beauty, serenity, divinity in my mind’s camera….All of us were amazed to see her hugeness like the ocean. After initial excitement, our mind became much calmer. Then we again started stepping down to reach the river bank. When we reached there, we removed our footwears, bowed down and first time touched her cool water with our hands; with devotion. It was just divine. It was not just ‘bahata paani…..’

Then our selfie drama started as usual. There were many boats…manual as well as motor boats. People were enjoynig the boat rides. On the opposite bank of Gangaji, there is a tent city, where they have recently built many tents for the devotees / tourists to stay.
We sat on the river bank; near the water. Few of us entered the water.  After some time, we decided to visit Sant Tulsidas’s house/ Tulsidas Ashram, located in Tulsi Ghat, adjacent to Assi ghat.  We again climbed up many steep steps to reach the Tulsi Ashram. It is said that Goswami Tulsidas wrote the ‘ Ramcharitmanas’ at this place. Ashram has an Idol of Lord Hanumana installed by sant Tulsidas himself. We have also seen a piece of boat used by him, his slippers/ khadau and his asan there. Many students ( of paurohitya) were reciting mantras there. They were the young boys who perform the shodashopchar puja and Ganga Aarati in the evening.
Sant Tulsidas life story practically proves that energy can not be destroyed but transformed in to another form. His power of Lust got channelised and directed to the Higher….transformed into complete devotion/ Love for Lord imparting him the sainthood.

Then we stepped down again to the bank. One young boatman came and asked us to hire his motor boat for a ride. We were thinking of walking along all the ghats to see them in detail. Boatman heard our discussion and said, ” teen-char ghat ghumke thak jaoge aap sab log.”

Now I will tell you some facts about myself-
Actually I have ‘water phobia’. Only once or twice I took a boat ride in my life and that too with very much fear. I feel fear, when I see a huge water ( even at the water park). So whenever we go to such places, we usually avoid boat rides. So, our plan was- walking along the ghats; letting my mother to sit at the safe place.
Boatman was saying; ” try karlo…ghumke dekho… thak jaoge to vapas aaha, mai boat se ghumaunga..”

Hearing boatman’s statments, everyone was looking at me for the decision. I was thinking and recalling  that;  since last one hour, I was not getting those fearful thoughts or symptoms; I  usually get; while looking at the huge water bodies. How can this be possible? Is this a miracle? Shall I consider this as a kripa/grace of Ganga maiyya?
I didn’t know; what happened to me… but I uttered spontaneously ; ” Ok….let’s have a boat ride…”  Everybody was amazed and surprised by my decision.
Boatman brought his boat near the bank…we entered it one by one. When boat started shaking in the water; I asked him innocently,  ” Bhaiyya, boat sirf kinare kinarese lenge na? Ghat hi to dekhane hai….” He laughed but replied; ” Aapaki suraksha…hamari jimmedari”
So we wore the life jackets and surrendering everything to Gangaji, I said; ” ok….chale?”
All were happily shouted- “Ganga maiyyaki Jay !”

This was the 1st time in my life, I was enjoynig the boat ride and that too on huge Gangaji. I was touching Gangaji’s cool water with my hands…. sprinkling it on my face and head.
So many birds were flying high in the sky and again coming down near us…we were feeding them seeds;  bought for them. Gangaji is huge and vast like ocean…. opposite bank is not easily visible. Our boat was moving slowly over the water showing the ghats after ghats….Assi ghat…Ganga mahal ghat…tulsi ghat…mata anandmayi ghat…jain ghat…prabhu ghat…harishchandra ghat…kedar ghat…narada ghat…ahilyabai ghat…Dashashwamedh ghat…prayag ghat…meer ghat…manikarnika ghat…bhonsale ghat…ganesha ghat….and so on. ( ghat is the riverfront steps leading to the bank of a river.) we were looking at them with our wide eyes. Everything was natural and beautiful there. Most of these ghats are bathing and ceremonial ghats except two– Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghat which are exclusively cremation sites.

When we were planning for Gangadarshana, someone said; ” Don’t take a weak hearted person and kids to see the manikarnika ghat. Because, scene at that ghat can induce vairagya in their mind.” Now I understood what he meant to convey.  Vairagya is the most difficult yet important qualification one needs.
We saw several dead bodies decorated with flowers at manikarnika ghat. Many bodies were burning in funeral pyre.  Boatman told that cremations on this ghat never take a pause and that’s why this ghat is also known as ‘burning ghat’.  People believe that the one who dies in varanasi and if his cremation is carried out at the Ganga bank, gets the moksha.
Weak hearted and children may feel fear by such scenes. They may feel negative and depressed by witnessing the temporary nature of our bodies/ death. Some may develop disgust about the life but this is not the true vairagya. Smashan vairagya is temporary.
We did namaskaras to the departed souls and started returning to Assi ghat.
I was continuously touching the cool water of Gangaji with my hands. Fearlessly…I was enjoying the ride. When we came in the midway, we rememberd that we have to collect Ganga-jal for many people. So we asked boatman to help us for the same. He suddenly increased the speed of the boat and took it away from the bank…..in the middle of the river…where water was the deepest….we opened our water bottles and filled them with Ganga-jal. Even on the deep water, in the middle of the Ganga, I felt no fear. Like a child in his mother’s lap….fearless and carefree….I was in her lap…..!
Then boatman took us to the Assi ghat. We got out of the boat and started climbing the steps in silence…
When we reached the gate, we turned back, again looked at Gangaji, and promised her to come at night for Ganga Aarati.

We called our driver. That was the time for our petpuja again. It was around 3pm. Driver asked us what type of lunch we wished to take. We replied; ” hame daal, roti, subji, chaval bilkul nahi khana. Hame sirf varanasi ka stree food khana hai.” He laughed and took us to the famous chat galli.
Tamatar chat, palak chat, basket chat, aalu chat, matar chat, and so on……
We decided not to leave any item untasted. So, we ordered for all the chats. Taste was so ectastic that we went on gobling and gobling; paying no attention to the calorie count and people around. When our antaratma calmed down, we could see other items- dhokla and khandavi calling and asking us ; ” What is our fault?” Why don’t we have the right to sacrifice ourselves to calm your stomach fires?” And we  were compassionate and kind enough to make space in our stomachs for them too…
After finishing the grand lunch, no one ate ‘ banarasi paan’ except my husband. 
We came back to our homestay to take some rest because attending the grand Ganga Aarati in the evening ; was our next target….
To be continued…..

Image source-The Internet.