Pancha Aranya Sthalam: A Travelogue

Thiru Jnana Sambandhar, an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, visited 5 temples in a day (spanning 30 km) by foot.

These five temples are known as Pancha Aranya Sthalams. Sambandhar started early morning at Thirukkaruggavoor, proceeded further to Avalivanalloor, before going to Haridwaramangalam at noon.

In the evening, he went to Alangudi. When he was heading towards Thirukollambudhur for the Ardha Jama (night) puja, the river got flooded. He sang a padhigam (verse), which split the river to pave way for him, and he successfully made it to the temple.

My Dad and My Mother-In-Law Mention the Same Temple

In 2019, my wife was pregnant with our child. My mother-in-law told me about a temple where the deity Garbharakshambika takes care of the baby in the womb of the expectant mother. 

Independently, my Dad told me about the Pancha Aranya Sthalams and how Sambandhar visited all five temples on the same day. My Dad visited these five temples in one day a few years ago and encouraged me to make this trip.

It turns out that the Garbharakshambika temple was the first among the Pancha Aranya Sthalams. So I embarked upon the journey.

I Travel to Kumbakonam

I drove down from Chennai to Kumbakonam and stayed at a hotel overnight. Whenever I travel alone, I stay at a place called Kasi Lodge. It is minimalistic without any great comforts, with clean rooms. I pay Rs. 600 for a non-ac room (or Rs. 1000 for an airconditioned room).

The front desk person is a no-nonsense older person named Jnana Sundaram, who I like a lot. Some people who exude respect just by the way they conduct themselves. Mr. Jnana Sundaram is one such person.

Swamiji has recommended leaving a tip for the fine folks who clean the rooms and make the beds. Before I learned this from Swamiji, Mr. Jnana Sundaram taught me this. He asked me to tip the cleaning boys when I checked out of my room.

Thirukkarukkavur

Deities: Mullaivananathar and Garbharakshambika

Thirukkarukkavur is a half-hour drive from Kumbakonam. I reach around 7 AM. There is a long list of people waiting for the temple to open. I noticed two specific groups of people who came to visit the temple:

• Pregnant women (usually with their husbands) who pray for the well-being of the baby in the womb
• Unmarried women, with a specific request to the Goddess that they get married 

Before I go for the darshan, I purchase a small bottle of oil. After I got the darshan of Mullaivananathar, I get a darshan of Garbharakshambika. The priest performs a prayer and gives me the oil, which in turn I am to give it to my wife. She is to take the oil with her when she goes into labor.

I purchase a booklet that contained the history of the temple, as well as two mantras to protect the womb. My wife and I diligently chanted the two mantras each day. I was fascinated with the idea that my wife could forge a bond with Garbharakshambika – who would safeguard our child and help with the delivery. No matter how much support her husband, her parent or her OB/GYN could provide, it is ultimately Garbharakshambika who would care for her when delivering the baby. When she went into labor, my wife remembered to take the oil with her to the delivery room. 

I firmly believe Garbharakshambika protected our child in the womb, and helped deliver him. I am eternally grateful to Her.  

Here is the website of the Garbharakshambika temple.

Avalivanallur

Deities: Sakshinathar and Soundarya Nayaki

I drove down from Thirukkarukkavur to Avalivanallur. It was a short drive.

Unlike the Garbharakshambika temple which was rather popular and well-attended, Avalivanallur was a quiet temple with a handful of attendees. The priest was an elderly person who told me the legend of the temple.

The temple priest got married to a fine young girl. He went on a pilgrimage trip, leaving his wife behind. His wife fell sick, and her sister came to nurse her. When the priest returned, he couldn’t believe that the ghostly sick lady is his wife. He believed that the beautiful girl, his wife’s sister, was his wife. Lord Shiva came down and explained the reality to the priest. Since the Lord came as a witness (sakshi), He is known as Sakshinathar.

The Prasadam prepared by the priest’s wife was beyond delicious.

Haridwaramangalam

Deities: Pataleshwarar and Alangaravalli

Legend has it that Sambandhar visited this temple around noon. I reached this temple around 11:15. I waited for the priest to arrive. The priest then sent me to purchase some bananas, flowers and pooja items. He then decorated the deities. When all was said and done, I was ushered in at noon, right on schedule. 

If Avalivanallur had a handful of people, I was literally the only person at Haridwaramangalam.

The priest was very sincere and encouraged me to consider contributing to temples as well as sincere priests who cared for the Lord residing in the temples.

Alangudi

Deities: Apatsahayeswarar and Elavarkuzhali

This is a famous temple, one of the nine Navagraha temples. This temple is the house of Guru Bhagavan, Dakshinamoorthy. Devotees who look to visit all nine Navagraha Sthalams come in large numbers to this temple. 

I went around 5 PM to this temple, and had a good Darshan of Lord Shiva as Apatsahayeshwarar (who helps devotees who are in difficulty/danger) and Goddess Elavarkuzhali.

Thirukkollambudhur

Deities: Bilvavaneshwarar and Soundarya Nayaki

When Sambandhar traveled by foot from Alangudi to Thirukkollambudhur, he had to cross a river. And the river was flooded with water. He composed a Pathigam (a set of 10 verses) and the river parted, paving way for Sambandhar to reach the temple. 

Meanwhile, the priests were expecting Sambandhar for the last pooja of the day (Ardha Jama Pooja), and were getting concerned when Sambandhar was not to be seen. As they contemplated proceeding with the pooja without Sambandhar, Lord Shiva spoke His instructions – informing the priests that Sambandhar was on his way, and to wait for his arrival for the Ardha Jama Pooja.

After receiving Darshan at the Alangudi temple, I started for the final temple of the day. I asked some local people if they knew the directions to Thirukkollambudhur. “Why are you venturing out to this temple in the dark, the route is complicated. Visit the temple tomorrow during day time”, they told me.

Huh? 

I thanked them for their time, and decided that Google would once again be my friend. I followed the route that Google Maps took me through.

To say the trip was an adventure is an understatement. I felt as if I was driving into the forests. Multiple times. What if I get a flat tire? What if my car breaks down? I silenced my mind and proceeded uneventfully for a glorious darshan of the Ardha Jama puja.

I was not the only person to have an adventurous ride. My Dad told me the roads from Alangudi to Thurukkollambudhur were some of the worst He’d ever been on. Possibly the worst roads. Anuradha, who chronicled her trip to the Pancha Aranya Sthalams in her travelogue, said this was the temple she had trouble locating.

I googled my way back to Kumbakonam. I had a smooth ride back.

It was rather mystical, how I had an adventurous ride on my way to the temple, as did others, and so did Thiru Jnana Sambandhar. Another mystical event was how the priest at Haridwara Mangalam made me purchase things, so that the puja starts at 12 noon right on schedule.

As if reminding me that God’s ways are mystical and inscrutable.

Images courtesy of Ilamurugan from tamilnadu-favtourism.blogspot.com